Whats in a Last? The Soul of the Shoe.
Most people would not even know what a shoe Last is. That it is the form that a higher end shoe is made around. But the Last makes a very significant contribution to the look and feel of the shoe.
Behind the actual pattern and material, I would say that the Last is the third largest contributor to the shoes look and vibe of the shoe.
It is extremely important to pair the Last up with the design of the shoe that you are making. The combination of the Last with a few other cosmetic differences (like changing from Black to Antique Edges) can quickly convert a design perfect for suits and the boardroom to a casual, denim only design. That and the fact that it is not an external element of the shoe is why I thought that calling it the Soul was a very befitting name.
The images above shows three different Alden Boots all with the “Indy” Mocc Toe pattern, but they each have a different level of formality associated with them.
The left most boot, is the made on the traditional Indy last, the Trubalance Last. The Trubalance last was designed for the workboot type of model and is supposed to provide a lot of all-day comfort by having a more sturdy or stable base. It features an extremely generous toe box and even in the above 10.5B narrower size, it is still a very wide platform.
The center boot, is made over the Grant Last. The Grant Last was designed to be a more formal Last and is definitely much sleeker, but still features a rounded toe. It provides an interesting compromise in the area of formality and definitely makes the boot feel much less work and some more business.
The right most boot, is made around the Plaza Last. In my opinion, the Plaza Last is the most formal of Alden’s Lasts and has a more tapered and squared off toe. This really made it feel much like a business worthy boot.
Another example of the impact of the last can be seen with the Alden 974 versus the Alden x Brooks Brothers Wingtip Balmorals.
This picture is the Alden classic 974 wingtip balmoral. It is made around the sparingly used Tremont Last.
This picture is the Alden x Brooks Brothers wingtip balmoral and is around the M-75 Last, which is based upon the Plaza Last.
The Plaza Lasted version to me looks like a more formal balmoral due to the shape of the shoe. The pairing of the exposed matching eyelets are an interesting twist of formality contrast
-Mike
How can I identify Last model through numbers or letters inside the shoes?
Jerry, unfortunately there is no way to know from the model number which Last it is made on. The only way to find out for sure is to see if you can find a credible reference or contact Alden’s general inquiry E-mail address… general@aldenshoe.com.
-Mike
Hi Mike,
Can you comment on the length and width of the Plaza last vs. other lasts? I love the soft-square look, but would like to know if it’s a good fit for me. I measure, on the longest foot, something like 10 3/4 and C on the Brannock. Thank you.
Robert,
Gladly, the Plaza Last is one of Alden’s True-To-Size Lasts. It’s shape is wide in the back and middle of the Last with a tapering coming up to the front. Since you are like. 10.75C, I would suggest that you try starting with an 11B, you may find that that wraps nicely around your foot. If that doesn’t work well, try the 11C if to small or 10.5C if to big. I would try some of the biggest shops (SF/DC/Madison/ShoeMart) to see if they have those sizes in stock in any model to just try it on.
Hope that this helps!
-Mike
Hey, I have a shoemart plaza color 8 3938 9 eyelet cap toe, gorgeous boot, great fit 11D. Also have an alden x lost and found trubalance indy commando color 8, antique, that is bigger in the toe box, but no heel slip, feels great, but definitely has some toe room. I just figured, different last, more space by design, no need to size down, maybe could have gone 11c or 10.5 d. Just ordered grant last black shell cap toe boot, 11d, expecting it to fit nicely..
Barrie 11d was too long and a bit wide in wingtip i tried on.
Shoemart said to match the plaza size with the trubalance size, only size down for barrie and modified.
My question: Just found the last black cxl indy commando and it’s 10.5d trubalance at alden carmel, since I am just fitting the 11d trubalance shell, couldn’t I probably fit the 10.5 cxl indy as well?
Graham,
First, I am glad to hear that you were able to get the ShoeMart’s 3938 (Color #8 Medallion Cap Toe Boot on the Plaza Last). I have a pair of them in both Color #8 and Black Shell Cordovan and it is just a classy boot.
Unfortunately, it appears that you were given poor advice on the Trubalance Last. The Trubalance Last is actually Alden’s most generous last and nearly everyone goes the exact same size on the Barrie and Trubalance that I am aware of and that is a half of size down from your True to Size or a True to Size Last. Since you are an 11D and have a great fit on the 3938, my recommendation for you would be to go 10.5D on the Trubalance and Barrie Last.
The Grant and Tremont Lasts are “tweeners” and folks go either way, with a recent majority sticking to their True to Size.
Given all this background, you should be good to go on the 10.5D Indy form Alden of Carmel.
Best of luck and hope that this helps!!
-Mike